Captain’s Log-11 February 2012-A Castle for Congo

On the banks of the Kabali and Dungu rivers stands the Dungu Castle. Notice the ONE lane bridge in the forground.

There are many incongruities in Africa and every time I fly downwind to land at the Dungu airstrip I fly over one.  There is a castle, yes, I said a castle, on the banks of the Dungu and Kabali Rivers. It often rises out of the misty morning ground fog so out of place I find it almost impossible to believe.
I guess the story goes that the Belgium Territorial Administrator, a man named Schollaeret, was tasked with the operation of building a bridge over the river Dungu.  Instead of building the two lane bridge that he was supposed to, he opted instead to build a one lane bridge and to build himself a 40 room castle with the remaining bricks.  It is a wonder, I can hear you saying, that a politician could do such a thing even in Africa, but there you have it.  It was 1942 after all and another time.
You can tell it was a thing of beauty in its’ day, although it’s now run down and covered with vines and creepers with trees growing out of the roof.  The UN has a base all around it now and the courtyard is full of lorries and Hummers.  And are those officers’ quarters by the front entryway?  There is quality workmanship to be seen and with the vaulted ceilings, large cut stone floors, arched windows & doorways and the parapets around the top, it is something right out of medieval Europe.  All right here in the back of beyond in Congo. Not far from the displaced people camps, humanitarian workers and LRA.  Amazing!

You can see the UN camp built up around the castle now. I will try to get some better pix from inside next time I am there for a while. It is am amazing site.

Captain’s Log-3 February 2012- River of Fire

Looking down the throat of the beast. A boiling pot of molten lava.

I was on a long flight and would not get home to Cher this night but if everything worked out just right, I could make it to Rumangabo in Virunga National Park where my sister LuAnne has been working for the last year.  I was excited about that, as there have been many changes since my last visit.  A new lodge has been built that is out of place in Congo, it is so nice.  Built out of the lava that is so plentiful in the area and thatch that I love to sleep under, it blends perfectly into its’ rainforest environment.  But the real draw for me, (other than my sister Lu of course), was the new volcano that has been going strong now for over a month.  I saw it as I flew by en route to Goma on Monday but as I flew in to land at the Katali airstrip where Emmanuel de Merode keeps the little Parks Cessna 182, I circled this growing mountain of lava that blows molten chunks of rock into the air.  Everything around it is black with the ash and rocks that have accumulated since the start of the eruption and it is surprising how far it has gone.  I saw a line of smoke going away to the north but had to land so didn’t investigate further that afternoon.

I had a great time with Lu and her friends from the park as she introduced me as her brother to virtually everyone we passed and all the many changes and improvements of the park were pointed out with pride.  It was obvious to see on every level that things were changing for the better and Emmanuel and his team were achieving Rock Star status as keepers of the treasure that is Virunga.

The volcano from Rumangabo Station. Not as huge as the other mountainous volcanoes in the area but still active and wild. It has no name, but I am thinking of calling it Mt. LuAnna.

We spent a lovely evening talking around the fire in the new lodge and demolishing a loaf of cinnamon bread that Cher had made for LuAnne but which she generously shared out to everyone’s pleasure.  I love sitting around a fire and talking but I may not have held up my end of the conversation as I had flown 1000 miles that day and was very eager to see the bed in my tent.

Ndakazi waiting not so patiently for her "tea" before going out for the day.

I woke early and walked out to see the clouds glowing from the fire of the volcano.  Although it is dwarfed by all the others around that climb up to anywhere from 11,000 to 14,000 feet and are so striking as to be truly unbelievable, it is still an amazing sight.
Lu and I walked down to the gorilla enclosure where they have some approximately 4 year olds and some around 8 and 10 year old orphaned gorillas just in time to watch them get their morning cup of tea.  Well, not really tea, more a protein mix to start their day.  It is interesting to see them drinking out of cups and obviously asking for “another, please”.

Maisha gets her "tea" before going out into the big enclosure for the day. She likes extra milk so the keeper just keeps pouring. Andre takes great pride in caring for these wonderful animals.

I had to be in Goma for a 9:00 a.m. flight so after my cup of coffee we drove down to the airstrip and I was off to Goma, where I loaded up with supplies for the hospital and the MSF Holland work in Pinga.
Pinga is a little grassy strip nestled at the bottom of the mountains with a river by one side of it.  It is a bit tricky to circle around the tops of the hills and get down in time to stop in the short 750 mt. length but it is dry right now and braking is good.  You can see that it will be much more interesting when the rains start and the Caravan skids very nicely.  There are ditches along each side for drainage but I can imagine them calling to the landing gear to come and fall in as the ground becomes soaked with water.

A river of churning, rushing lava that took my breath away with its destructive power. There are some great new pix of this river of fire on the Gorilla Blog that you can get to by clicking on the black and orange gorilla picture in the side column.

On the flight back to Bunia I had another chance to fly over the volcano and this time I followed the smoke trail leading away north.  To my amazement it was a river of glowing lava.  It took my breath away as I realized it was not just flowing but rushing as it churned and splashed and tumbled, reminding me more of a waterfall than just a river.  I realized that there would be no way to outrun it and the whole scene was powerful and unsettling.  The flow would go underground at points and then surface again, flowing just as fast, a kilometer or two away.  All the trees in it’s path had burned away or were burning still in a continually widening path through the bush.  It was an awesome thing to look upon from the plane and I wondered how much more powerful it would have felt down on the ground.  This time I was glad for my eagle’s eye view.

My sister LuAnne...LuAnna in Congo, at Rumangabo

Captain’s Log-27 January 2012- Shoulder Shot

Kids stand under the wing to see what is going on with the plane. Sorry but I left my camera home for the shoulder shot man.

Getting a call to pick up a man who has been shot always sparks speculation as to how such a thing has happened, and this time was no exception. Especially because of the area it was in.  There have been many attacks by the LRA around Bangadi so one always suspects them.  It was hot and dusty by the time I got there in the Cessna 206, “ndege kidogo” as it is often called by the locals using this plane; the “Little airplane”.  And the 40 degree Celsius temperature was physically draining.
As I landed and parked with UN troops all around, one of the soldiers came up to the door and said their supply helicopter was coming in right then and would I please move.  I looked through the windscreen and, sure enough, a big MI-8 was coming toward us, and not far away.  I got on the radio, told the Russian pilots that I would move the plane down to the end of the strip and started up again.
The MI-8 landed right where I had been in its’ usual enveloping cloud of dust as the nurse and I walked back to try to find our patient.  As we got there a couple of motorcycles, or piki-pikis, drove up, one having 3 people on it.  The driver sat in front, of course. The patient sat in the center, dressed in camo shorts with a hole in the crotch, a short sleeved red shirt with bandages sticking out each shoulder where he had been shot and slops for shoes. The man in the back sandwiched the patient in so as to keep him from falling off on the bumpy trip from town.  He looked like he was in pain as he sat with hands placed gingerly on his lap. His head was also bandaged from another wound.  We pointed them toward the plane and walked back again.
It always surprises me the level of pain and discomfort the average African will tolerate, and this man was no exception.  Trying to help him into the back of the plane where I had taken out the seats and placed a mattress, I took his feet and the motorcycle “ambulance” driver took him under his arms.  The patient grimaced in pain and said he couldn’t stand that because of the bullet holes in his shoulders and asked him to please take him by the head instead.  Whereupon, the man was grabbed by one hand behind his neck and one under his chin and lifted into place on the mattress!  This got a smile out of the patient and what must have been a very curious look from me.
We took off as the big MI-8’s rotors started turning and bumped our way in the heat back to Dungu and the hospital there.
I got back to Bunia around 2:20 and since our other 206 was still out and didn’t have time to do one more leg after his return, I took his last flight to Mambassa.  The burning grass fires around Bunia were so bad that it was almost IFR until I got a bit further out over the forest.  Africa is burning this time of year and the sky is just full of smoke.  I look forward to the rains and some clearer skies.  But it was an interesting day at the office none the less.

Some of the many bush fires burning around Congo now. The smoke in the sky is quite remarkable. This is just a little one.

Captain’s Log-21 January 2012- Beautiful Day Over the Forest

Colorful trees that "bling" the forest

Cruising over the Ituri in the fresh morning air I could smell the forest below.  It was reminiscent of frangipani or something sweet like that.  I couldn’t put my finger on it.  But  while looking at every shade of green tree under the sun, one of florescent coral orange or pink or rusty brown or polk-a-dots of white would pop out in stark contrast.  Black and white hornbills gliding through the tops of the branches, their white trailing edge feathers forming a gentle sweeping C, showed that there were living things below.   A turquoise green parrot of some sort shot along as if in a very big hurry to get somewhere and added other flashes of color to delight your eyes.

I was going to pick up some men at Mambasa who had been working on a building project for a mission that needed living quarters for people coming to meetings, youth camps and conferences.  They were big strong tan handsome curly-haired Dutch guys who were obviously brothers.  Kees, Marko and Thijs (who are 3 of 12 kids in their family).  They build and engineer roads in Holland and do other building construction things.  They grew up on a farm and knew about tractors so the airstrip was mowed beautifully in the process of their work.  That is a rare treat in the forest.  They said the grass was about 2 meters high so I was glad they went to the trouble before I got there.  An airplane is a very expensive lawn mower and when the grass is hitting the leading edge of a high wing airplane it is not nice.

Mambasa airstrip-not to be confused with Mombasa on the Kenya coast

Mambasa airstrip is built on the side of a little mountain and the bottom of the field is down in a hole so deep that I usually bypass about half of the runway before touching down.  The big hump in the middle dividing it keeps you from seeing the other half when you are on the ground, so taking off you are never sure what is down in the back half until you get there.  I have found a herd of buffalo over such hills at other strips like this so you really need to be on your toes and ready to abort the takeoff or landing.

Kees and Thijs and me with soe of the brothers from Mambasa

The village community had lined up along the area we stop in to say goodbye to the volunteers…or just because they were curious and they greeted us enthusiastically.  I once took a couple of the kids for a ride in the plane so maybe they were hoping for that. Anyway, pictures were taken, there were hand shakes all around and last minute words were spoken.  They had obviously been appreciated.

Marko gets to be the co-pilot for the flight back to Bunia

Marko won the toss for sitting in the front and we loaded the VERY heavy suitcases.   Luckily there were only three people and not far to go, just a 50 minute flight.  But they enjoyed the forest and wonderful scenery along the way.  Sometimes we even see chimpanzee nests in the trees along the way, but the forest is so thick you would have to be very lucky to see the elephants that wander around below.  We circled the building project as we left the area to many waving people from the ground.

As we circle the building sight Marko and Thijs take pix.

We were hours early to catch the MAF-Uganda flight over to Entebbe so I invited the brothers home for something cool to drink and a bite to eat.  One of the nice things about this job is the close interaction with so many of our passengers who become great friends over time.  While we talked they said that their suitcases, which were going to cost $50 in overweight just to Uganda, were full of pineapples!  These would no doubt be confiscated on entry to Uganda or Amsterdam so they finally decided to leave us with a bunch and we got it down to where there was no overcharge.  We are now enjoying pineapples and were able to give many to friends.
It was another great day at the office.

Kids from Epulu who came to welcome the plane on the afternoon flight. The always chant "Maji, Maji Maji" to get me to do a few magic tricks.

Captain’s Log-15 January 2012-Back in the Saddle Again

Unloading the Cargo of hospital supplies at Mungbere Mission

As I cruised over the thick vegetation of the Ituri forest and the beautifully manicured Epulu airstrip, hiding its’ bounding bumpy surface, came into sight, I was struck again that I am just made for this job.  I love it.  It happened to me the first day back flying on Monday as well.  Lary and I had flown over to pick up a load of medicine and hospital supplies for Mungbere Mission, taking the chance to do a PFR (Proficiency Flight Review) along the way.  When I stopped at Kajjansi to load the cargo I was greeted by Daude Lule at the door of the Caravan.  “It seems you are glad to be flying again Mr Jon!”, he said.

Very happy to be flying over the forest again. Rosie Ruf from the Okapi Reserve is looking out the window at the millions of trees.

Oh yes!  It is such a pleasure it is hard to describe.  That perfect fit.  That moment in time when all the elements of a great receipt come together to create the mouth watering cuisine. delightful dish. When something….or someone…is fulfilling the purpose for which it or he  was created.  Like the sound of Babe Ruth’s baseball bat connecting with the ball that will sail out over the walls of the park for a home run.  Like morning mist on the banks of the Rogue River. The sweeping curve of the fly rods’ line as the sun traces it’s gentle path through the air.  When the fly almost touches the water and a huge rainbow trout tail-stands out of the water to grab the fly and…it is perfect.

That is me slipping my Caravan into a bumpy little strip of grass cut out of the tall trees in the steamy forest of Congo and making the delivery.  Just perfect!

Rosie finds a box of Swiss chocolates for Cher and me as a thank you for the flight while I unload the plane and play with the kids. Umm, those chocolates are good! I like the picture of half in half out. Like a picture half under water and half in the air above.

Cher and I lay in bed in the morning with smiles on our faces as we listened to the sounds of birds and the little town of Bunia waking.  She said to me, “Describe, in one word, what you are feeling right now.”  I said back without hesitation, “Relaxed.”  And she yelled out, “Hey, that is MY word!”   We are so glad to be back home where we belong.

Game Scouts of Epulu stand guard over the plane as I get ready to take off for Bunia. Notice the new terminal building in the background. Progress. There are also flush toilets but they were all locked up and the man with the key was gone, so they were not very helpful.

Kids at Mungbere Mission. Check the Obama T-shirt and the fashionable way to wear sunglasses.

Captain’s Log-25 December 2011-Christmas Together with Family

The whole family together for the first time at Christmas.

It has been our pleasure to spend this Christmas time in the United States and with our whole family for the first time in many years and with friends both from long past and new.  Contrasting it all with our life in Congo there are some striking differences.  I have noticed what seems to be a hesitation to use the words “Merry Christmas” almost as though you might offend some.  Happy Holidays seems to be the substitute that would leave Christ out and be less offensive.   I guess I have never been that politically correct but is does seem like many wonderful things are hijacked to be the representation of something totally different and often opposed to their origin.  Rainbows as a symbol of gays or owl’s association with witches, to name a few.  I guess that the real meaning of Christmas is not as good for sales as Santa Claus.

Don’t get me wrong.  I am all for the celebration and giving gifts and all.  In fact this is sounding much more negative than I had intended at the start.

The contrast of Congo and the US is striking….over the top riches and things.  I walk in the mornings and this morning I walked past a nativity with live sheep and a donkey.  It was cold and early and I had to look over a tarp to see the scene inside.  The animals got a little start but quickly came over to me for a rub and I felt the joy of life forms or differing types connecting.  Then I looked up in the corner where Mary and Joseph stood with the baby Jesus lying in a manger in the hay.  The Christmas connection happened for me right then.  God sending his very own son, out of fabulous riches and power to be a helpless baby in the care of first-timer parents with very little in the way of what we consider the blessings of life.  But there was a purpose in it all.  That is what I am so grateful for this Christmas.  The sacrifice and the purpose.  It inspires me to live a Christlike life of purpose.  I hope there is something that fires you up to the real meaning of Christmas this year that fills you with Joy!

Scarlet with her new Dolly. Very happy!

Grandma Cher with Scarlet on Christmas morning. Jullian in background.

Jullian and I try on my uncle Dean's Air Corps uniforms from World War II that were given to me as a gift. Dean was a navigator on B-24s in the Pacific in the 13th Air Force.

Captain’s Log-26 November 2011-“When the Wheels Fall Off”-(or your landing gear is on backwards)

The phone rang and my friend Simon Rodger was on the other end calling from South Africa.  He had been having some trouble with his Cessna 185 and, since I have specialized in working on them and taught him how to fly C185’s, he thought I might be able to help.  He had bought this plane from MAF during our fleet renewal program. It had just come out of a commercial shop after a change of registration and replacement of cracked gear boxes and this was one of his first trips in the plane since the work.  There was a vibration in the tail wheel but the plane was harder to handle than he remembered and he thought maybe we should fly together again as a review.  The Cessna 185 is a taildragger and is squirrely. It needs to be flown all the way till it is parked in the hangar, so if you are not really “switched on” things can go wrong quickly on the ground.  He said he just couldn’t seem to figure out where the ground was and he would bounce it and it acted crazy.  In fact, one time he was taxing up to the fuel pumps and when he braked to slow down, the plane had gone up on its’ nose and he was only able to stop it from flipping over by pulling the stick back all the way and adding full power.  This is a very scary thing to do only meters away from fuel pumps and I’m not sure I would have thought to do that so quickly!  He said he would fly right up and I agreed to look at it.

When he arrived we pulled the plane in the hangar and I put the tail up into the air on a sawhorse.  It was not too complicated to see the tail wheel problem.  The wrong size bolts had been put into the holes that held the whole tail wheel spring allowing it to wobble around.  I went to get some of the right bolts but as I walked past the front of the plane I noticed something funny on the main gear.  There were some painted-over rust pits on the front side of the spring steel gear which were just the size of the brackets that hold the brake lines in place.  They are supposed to be on the backside of the gear.  And the brackets were now super-glued on the back side.  That was strange.  Things just looked wrong!

The landing gear is actually on backwards. This puts the wheels back about 8-10 inches and causes the plane to flip over on its nose.

The National Parks Cessna 185 was out on the ramp so I walked out to look at its’ gear to see if I could tell what the problem was.  It was obvious as soon as I looked at the gear on the other plane.  Simon’s gear was on backwards!  That made the wheel sit 8 or 10 inches further back and so the center of gravity was all wrong for ground handling  Now it was easy to see how the plane had almost gone over on its’ nose.

Landing gear on the National Parks airplane installed properly. Notice the straight leading edge of the gear and the angled trailing edge. The gear reaches forward . This makes all the difference in ground handling.

The front landing gear leg edge is straight when properly installed and the back side has a bit of an angle in it.  When the work was done on the plane they had put the gearboxes in backward and then had to switch the spring steel gear legs to make them fit.  So now the left one was on the right and the right one was on the left.  They should have noticed when they had to go to all the trouble to take the brake brackets off and put them on the other side to make things work!

Brake line bracket superglued onto the gear. Notice the pits from the rust that was under the brackets where they had been installed correctly.

I told Simon that I was very proud of him for keeping the plane right side up under these circumstances.  I knew about this happening once before and when they took the plane out to test fly it the pilot hit the brakes to stop and do his pre-takeoff run up checks and the plane went right over on its’ nose, striking the prop and causing a lot of damage.

After Simon took his plane back and had it fixed properly he had no problem landing and ground handling.

It strikes me that it is not uncommon for us to think we have done something accurately when only the slightest change to the placement of even the correct parts or pieces of information can lead to the most disastrous of conclusions.